I was happy with my 70’s kitchen cabinet makeover, but the countertop…well, let’s just say any happy description is an understatement! I’ve had multiple responses from people who couldn’t believe it was just craft paint and varnish, all thought is was granite or other stone material. Color me happy!
It deserved some attention too!
Counter and cutting board before painting.
Getting ready to paint
Getting ready to paint with acrylic craft paints.
First round of paint applied with a sponge.
About mid-way through the process, sponged on yellow and black.
All finished – last coat was a mix of antique white and light brown and applied with a plastic bag.
The paint job finish is lighter than the final result after the glaze.
Area prepped and ready for the glaze
Pour on glaze is spread and beginning to harden.
Pour on glaze is spread and beginning to harden.
Absolutely LOVE the new look of stone.
The finished product looks like stone
Even the cutting board got a lift
Stone look, glossy shine
Refinished around existing sink
Finished product looks great.
Painting and coating an old laminate counter with acrylic craft paint and pour on, high gloss.
What supplies do I need?
Acrylic, craft paint (any variety of colors you choose)
Plastic grocery bags
Pour on, high gloss epoxy
Plastic drop cloth & painter’s tape
Mixing containers and sticks
Blow torch or straw for blowing air
TIPS & SUGGESTIONS
Don’t be afraid to try! I learned quickly that undoing the paint job and starting over was as easy as removing nail polish.
Try multiple tools and techniques to see what gives you the look you want.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter when mixing the epoxy.
I’d have tackled this project sooner but for the following unknowns: 1) I didn’t know for sure if I could get the look I wanted with painting techniques, 2) I was intimidated by the pour on varnish, 3) I didn’t know how much it would cost. Now that it’s done I’m kicking myself for waiting!
If these are holding you back too, I’m here to tell you go for it! It was much less scary than I’d anticipated and the results exceeded all my expectations. So if you’re like me and wished you could find some answers to these questions, I’m here to share my learning curve.
1) I knew I wanted a stone look, but wasn’t sure I could achieve the desired look with painting techniques. I found a picture of a stone counter sample I liked. I used the colors I saw in that sample to pick out paint colors. This was critical because I’d have never picked up the orange on my own and it adds the depth of color needed. I bought my paints at a local craft store – even hit their 99 cent sale, making the cost all of about $5.00 for paint.
I filled any nicks and imperfections in the old counter with wood filler, then started painting. In trepidation, I started in one corner. I didn’t worry about painting on a base coat because I wanted the yellow to show through. The first result showed I could indeed simulate a stone look with enough effort, but I knew immediately I’d made a mistake on colors. The yellow was completely covered so everything looked too grey. Also, because I’d started in one smaller section, I couldn’t match without seeing a seam (insert sad face). I knew I needed the additional paint color and that I needed to do the entire surface at one time. So, I scraped off what I’d done, wiped the space with a little acetone and voila! The space was back to it’s original state and ready to try again.
Lesson of the day – you can always start over until you get it right. I so wish I’d known this before I started! It really took the fear out of trying. In the end, I already knew I’d probably like anything better than what was already there, but such a simple and endless “redo” option, well that was magic!
So when I started the second time I took photos of each step so I could duplicate on the rest of the counters later. Mine ended up being a 7 step process to get the look I wanted. And yes, following these photos gave me a matched look when I tackled the rest of the counters a few weeks later.
I used two tools – sponge and plastic bags. The plastic bags made all the difference in getting the look I wanted. I highly recommend using them. If you’re really scared to start right on the counter, try it out on some card stock or paper to see what the different tools do. I’ve also used paper towels on craft projects with success. Acrylic craft paint is so versatile and forgiving, plus it dries fast. Give it a whirl – who knows what will work best for you? When you’re done, your finished work will be 100% authentic and unique. Isn’t that cool?!
The next things holding me back were connected – cost and intimidation of the product. As you can see from my pictures, I have a large peninsula, sink and corner counter as well as a separate section on another wall. For me, this space was approximately 60 square feet. I purchased the pour on glaze product in kits of 32 ounces to the tune of about $30.00 per kit. It took 48 oz to cover the side counter (approximately 12 sq feet) and 192 oz to cover the rest (approximately 48 sq feet). That’s a grand total of about $225.00 for 240 oz of pour on gloss. I’d love to say this was as cheap as the paint, but it is what it is. The finish is totally worth the cost in my opinion, and I’ve worked with enough polyurethane to know comparisons. One critical note about this product – follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Don’t skimp on the amount, measure, and mix according to the directions. I had no problems, I read several who did and all tried to cut corners on these steps.
Starting on the side counter gave me a taste for the project to see if it was as intimidating as I’d feared. It wasn’t. I did watch several you tube videos of people pouring this stuff, it’s not an exact science just know the better you pour evenly the less smoothing and relocating of the product you’ll have to do later. Oh, and there is PLENTY of time to spread the mixture with the plastic spatula without panicking. From what I’d read and heard, I thought it would start curing fast so I was pretty worried about covering large spaces. No worries, the mixture takes 8 hours to cure to a dust free stage. As long as you’ve measured and mixed the product as directed, there’s no need to worry . . . like I did . . . all night. It worked as beautifully as they said it would, a high gloss, level, finish cured to a hard finish. I used the same spatula to run the product that spills over the side along the edge, and then over the next couple of hours I’d run it along the bottom of the edge to remove drips.
The blow torch was also less scary than imagined, in fact it was kinda fun! We bought a kitchen torch (now we can have creme brûlée – bonus!). Just as the manufacturer’s instructions stated, the bubbles from the chemical process start to form about 15 minutes after application. You simply run that torch over those spots in quick movements and those little bubbles pop like magic. In my experience, you’ll never get every bubble, and given the large surface area I’m not sure it’s realistic to expect. As the product continues to cure and harden, removing bubbles became problematic as they didn’t fill back in smoothly. This was the point (about 1 1/2 hours) that I stopped babysitting and let the product finish hardening. Depending on your lighting, you may always see little imperfections, but honestly I have to be looking for and studying mine to find them. I’m extremely happy with it.
One thing I would mention, the glaze darkens the finished look. I like it, but I wasn’t expecting it. So if you’re going for something really light you may want to compensate for that by doing more light than you’d planned.
It’s been on the “to do” list for a long, L O N G, time: Give this old kitchen a facelift!
That 70s scroll has been updated to a new, bright, trimmed, bead board finish. And I couldn’t be happier.
Filling in the scroll detail and hardware holes.
Gluing bead board wallpaper over top.
Measuring vinyl lattice trim.
Gluing trim on the cabinet edges.
Painting over the new cabinet surface.
A little paint, trim and wallpaper go a long way!
This is a resurfacing kitchen cabinets project. I used bead board wallpaper and vinyl trim to give the old doors a new look.
What supplies do I need?
Cleaning supplies for hardware and grease – ammonia, dish soap, brush
Plastic drop cloths
Plastic spatulas (small for wood filler, larger for smoothing wall paper)
Protective masks for sanding
Oil based primer
Mineral spirits for cleaning primer brush
Paint brushes (one for oil, one for latex)
Bead board wallpaper
Saw to cut trim
Professional strength glue (these use a caulking gun)
Hardware (new pulls and handles)
Hardware placement guide (optional)
Power drill with drill bit (for making holes for new hardware), phillips/flat head screwdriver bits for removing and installing hardware
How do you do it?
The process is a matter of preparing the old doors for refinishing, adding new materials to the front of the cabinets and painting. Preparation includes removing hardware, cleaning, filling any scroll work or old hardware holes, and sanding. Applying new materials will require the trim and wallpaper as well as the tools to fit and glue them onto the cabinet face. Painting is a two step process of priming (oil based will both seal and maximize adhesion of paint) and painting.
TIPS & SUGGESTIONS
Working with old cabinets brings unique challenges, and in my opinion working with what you have is a must for this kind of project. Narrow doors like mine mean cutting corners, like using wider trim to hide old scroll work, could result in unsatisfactory results. These things will impact what you choose to do and what it takes to get it done right.
Other considerations include mixing new and old materials and how they’ll look when finished. I opted to find a way to reface all the front surface so the paint would be uniform over new materials, a GREAT call.
Further, adding thickness or weight to doors can cause problems – hence the wallpaper bead board and light vinyl trim. Taking time to really consider the existing custom work of your kitchen will help form a style option that works for you and your existing cabinets. This is critical for super custom sections like corner cabinets, etc.
I do as much online as possible. I love having things shipped to me, and living in a rural area can limit your choices. So I always start my searches for materials on Amazon and reserve the hardware and home improvement stores for a few items that just need done locally.
I asked local paint specialists for suggestions and tips and took the time to look around the home improvement store for trim options that resulted in finding the perfect solution for me.
Keep in mind that some things you may have to reuse (like original hinges to make things fit right).
DIY doesn’t mean free. Avoid the intersection of cheap and easy. Be realistic, if it was going to cost you $5,000.00 to replace cabinets, then spending $500.00 isn’t going to be unreasonable for a DIY resurface. Remember, little items add up. Like new handles and pulls – $3 – $4 ea adds up when you realize you need on the order of 36 and that’s $100-150 by itself. Paint will run you anywhere from $30-60 a gallon. So before you even start looking at things like wallpaper and trim you’re already easily at the $200 mark. Plan on investing a reasonable amount of time and money into a project like this.
Don’t rush it. Paint can only dry so fast and haste makes waste.
I kept a container of Lysol disinfectant wipes handy…they are perfect for cleaning quick painting messes and wiping off glue.
I spent a great deal of time researching options, paint, etc. There’s so much out there! Here’s how I decided on things and my considerations.
I started by asking a paint specialist for recommendations and suggestions for painting my 70’s, dark stain, cabinets white. His suggestions were invaluable. He suggest proper preparation of cleaning and sanding, sealing with an oils based primer as woods will leak sap and oils, and finishing with a high quality latex paint. He also told me pure white paints don’t cover as well (even showed me the manufacturer’s note of exclusion on this) so advised me to pick out a white tint I liked. Sure wish I’d known this before I used a plain white base paint to do all my ceilings and trim a few years ago! This piece of advice was absolutely true.
I knew I couldn’t tackle this project at one time. It was just too big and I have an 8 month old now. This has definitely been a broken down task but it’s worked out well. I’ve had time to learn what works and what doesn’t, how to do things right and not rush. Here’s a sneak peak at what I mean when I say broken down. I mean really broken down like top section, bottom, repeat in another area kind of broken down.
The best advice I have to offer on this is simply to give yourself permission to do things as you can; don’t let time expectations stunt your productivity. Any progress is still progress, even if it’s not all at once. You can’t rush things like paint drying time, so I figured I’d embrace it and shuffle between tasks as time allowed.
I’d also advise anyone ready to tackle this project to be ready for a few surprises. My first one included seeing how the cabinet had pulled away from the ceiling from years of weighted content. The middle section had actually bowed by nearly 1/2 inch. If you’re equally unfortunate, you’ll be happy to know a few cabinet screws can restore and lift everything back to it’s proper placement. Your doors will hang right and thank you! Speaking of hanging right, I also learned that even buying the same style of hinges didn’t work. They are ever so slightly different in measurements than the originals and the doors wouldn’t hang right. So I ended up reusing the original hinges and buying new hardware to match.
Prep work included scraping off all the old toad stool contact paper used as shelf liner, light sanding around the front of the wood, priming and painting.
By the way, I wouldn’t be without one of these scrapers for most any project, but I used it several times during this one!
I know a lot of people don’t worry about painting the inside of their cabinets, but I’d have been super unhappy if I’d left them. Especially with white fronts. Besides, now I know everything is clean! I only used brushes, one for the primer and one for the latex. They are the only two brushes I used for everything. Both were recommended by the paint specialist and I’m glad I followed his advice, including storing the cleaned brushes back in their original containers to maintain their shape. These are worth the investment and truly the only tools I used to paint everything. I got one in each brand to ease in keeping them separate, but found both equal in quality.
I used a Kilz oil based primer recommended by the paint specialist. I can tell you, this is a little like glue when applying and I can see why it’s recommended for this purpose. It made the next coat of latex paint a one step process. Don’t skip the primer!
First (and only) needed coat of white latex paint over the primed surface.
I chose a white tint I liked and purchased a gallon of satin Valspar from my local Ace Hardware store. I shuffled between painting the inside cabinets and working on the doors, making use of drying time to alternate between the two. The first step with the doors was removing all the hardware. Then I filled all the decorative scroll and old hardware holes in the middle of the doors.
After drying, I sanded the surface of the doors – front, back and sides. An electric sander works great and takes only minutes. My advice is definitely do this outdoors as the dust is a mess, protective masks are also a good idea.
This little sander has been awesome:
Then it was on to gluing the wall paper on the fronts. I didn’t worry about exact measurements because I knew I was putting 1 1/2 inch trim around the edges. Although this paper is pre-pasted, I used an all purpose adheasive and only sprayed enough water on the paper to activate the glue. I used one of the large plastic spatulas to smooth the paper down and remove air bubbles.
Next came adding the trim. I didn’t use a measuring tape (gasp! I know). I’ve found over time, that few things in a home line up, are at perfect angles or fit on a square. So, I placed the trim over the length of the door, marked it and cut that length. Then I checked it to make sure it fit the length of the door and used it to mark the second one for the other side. Then I’d lay those two pieces in place and mark the inside sections. Then I glued the pieces in place and clamped them for security and accuracy during drying. I found the key in the process was making sure edges lined satisfactorily and to recheck all the areas after clamping and the slightest shift can happen during this process and result in a piece drying just off where you wanted. When the trim was dry I sealed any gaps along the edges with caulk.
I used this glue:
I painted the back of the doors with the primer and one coat of the latex paint. The fronts got two coats of the latex paint.
One final note on working with custom bases… I had to figure out how to work the custom design on a corner cabinet and some drawers. Originally, the scroll on these drawers were done to make it look like the bottom three drawers were one design. I went back and forth on trying to decide if I should frame in all the sides or follow the custom design of connecting the bottom three. In the end I went that route and I think it was the right call. Working as much as possible with the original can pay off.
And now I have a kitchen that has gone from dated 70’s scroll to sleek and bright white. I know, I know, how could I part with that old stove? Sorry, some things just deserve retirement.
Several years ago I ventured into learning how to make the one thing I really love – toffee. I did a search and one of the first recipes to come up was called “Awesome Homemade Toffee“. I looked at the ingredient list:
1 pound butter
1/2 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon salt
16 ounces milk chocolate chips
My first thought? It can’t possibly be THAT simple. But indeed it was. The first batch and every batch since have turned out great.
The hardest thing about this recipe is stirring. As you cook the first four ingredients together, you have to stir it constantly as it starts boiling – and it needs to boil for 10-13 minutes to achieve the right candy temperature of 300 degrees. Still, 10 minutes of stirring versus an hour or more for baking is an easy decision for me, plus I love the stuff! I found using a wooden spoon and a large, teflon coated pot work best for this process. The first time I made it, I used the candy thermometer. After that I could tell by the color and time when it was reaching the browned appearance of toffee. It’s almost always hit the 10 minute mark for me. My pot has silver handles that get hot so I use a silicone glove to hold the pot and keep my hand cool during the process.
I pour mine into a large cookie sheet. It covers about 3/4 of the pan. I don’t worry about the poured edge as it rounds out nicely on it’s own. I just make sure the mixture is spread evenly.
Simply pour the chocolate chips over the top and let them sit for a few seconds to start melting, then smooth the chocolate out with a spatula. If you like nuts on your toffee, you can add those too.
After the toffee is cooled (you can speed the process by using your fridge), I use my kitchen mallet and a butter knife to break the toffee up into the desired size pieces. Put them in a fun jar to dress up the appearance and the perfect gift is ready to go. One batch makes a lot of toffee!
The entire process can be finished easily in an hour and the results are OH SO satisfying!
This little bundle keeps us so happy. She is so peaceful and such a happy little soul. When I consider how long we went without her I can’t imagine how we made it so long. She is truly treasured by all of us.
Christmas was wonderful, Jaimee really brought back that magic that children embody with the holidays. It was was as much fun watching her play with paper and bows as it was to imagine her next year buzzing around the room on her own. We had our traditional fondue dinner Christmas Eve and had grandma over to enjoy it with us. Then we were all spoiled with sleeping in until 8:30 on Christmas morning! The kids enjoyed a throw back style Christmas to simple gifts of games and toys and the magic grew when the snow arrived. And boy do we mean snow! I haven’t seen so much snow in such a short time since I was just little. It was enough to cancel church on Sunday so I had a super birthday getting to keep everyone at home with me.
So another year is wrapped up and new one has begun. Can’t wait to see what’s in store.
This article has been buried for a long time. I thought maybe it was time to resurrect it with the holidays coming on. Don’t let yourself be intimidated to make a gingerbread house from scratch! I taught myself and every year we’ve had a smashing success. :) Maybe this year, I’ll update this one with some new pictures and creations – can’t believe this is already 7 years old! Where’d the time go?
I’ve used several gingerbread recipes over the years but this one is my favorite and I use it for everything gingerbread:
1 cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 cup molasses
1/4 cup water
5 cups all-purpose flour
2-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon salt
I found it in my Taste of Home magazine and it’s just plain awesome. It needs to sit in the fridge for a half hour to hour to make the dough more workable (less sticky) so leave some time for that. You can do it without that step, (I’ve done it before) but it requires the use of more flour and it was harder to get smooth without the chill time. However if you ask my 5 year old (he’s 12 now!!) it didn’t alter the taste one bit! In short, you just mix the first 4 ingredients together until creamy, mix the dry ingredients together first in a separate bowl and then slowly add it to the mixture. Bake at 350 degrees for 10-12 minutes or until edges are firm.
if your dough is too crumbly then add a little water in small amounts (like a teaspoon at a time)
if your dough is too sticky/gooey then add a little flour in small amounts (like a tablespoon at a time)
if you are short 1/4-1/2 C of molasses, pour that much water into the jar and swirl it around until the jar is mostly clean and water is slightly thickened and flavored, pour it into your dough.
The next step is rolling out the dough. You need a flat surface lightly coated with flour and a big rolling pin. Most recipes suggest a thickness of about 1/4 inch. For cookies I like to leave the dough a little thicker (remember it will rise as it cooks) because it keeps the cookies softer. But for houses I roll mine a little thinner so it’s not so heavy and will dry faster. Remember to coat your rolling pin with some flour too to keep the dough from sticking and wrapping around it.
Once the dough is rolled out to the desired thickness you cut your patterns. If you’re doing cookies any cookie cutter will work. For houses I make my own pattern. You only need three basic pieces for a simple house: a front and back that is a square with a triangle top, a side that is a rectangle or square that matches the height of the front/back square, and a roof that is just a little larger than the side. Cut two of each and you have the makings for your house.
If you’re a little uncertain, just construct your house with paper first to make sure your pieces fit/work together. The roof needs to be a good 1/2 inch larger on all sides than the sides to ensure coverage once the pieces are put together. Last year I made my own pattern for a church and this year I made a taller two story style home. I just played with basic paper patterns to try new things. A house is a simple pattern of squares, rectangles and triangles. Put a triangle top one a square and cut out two to make the end pieces, and 4 rectangles for the sides and roof. The image below shows you what the pattern pieces look like. The walls have windows cut out and the small triangles glue together to make a little chimney.
I cut my patterns out and then transfer them onto a cookie sheet. If you get easily frustrated moving the pieces then I suggest rolling the dough out on a piece of wax of foil paper so you can just lift the entire thing or even flip it over to drop the pieces onto a cooking sheet. When the pieces come out they will be puffy from cooking. If you’re a perfectionist you may want to use a sharp knife to cut around the edges making them straight. Between you and me, that’s the whole point of the frosting at all the seams and I rarely bother with it unless something really got distorted during cooking. You can cut out doors and windows both before and/or after baking. Just make sure if you do it after baking you do it while the dough is still warm. Additionally, you can make small marks/outlines with a butter knife for windows or doors if freehand isn’t your thing. Then you can just trace over the marks with the icing.
The gingerbread needs to be hard enough to stand without bending before you put the houses together. I’ve never had any fall apart but I’ve heard from plenty of people that experienced a cave in. Depending on thickness that can take a few hours to a full day. This year I cooked mine on Sunday and put them up Monday night. Last year I’m pretty sure I cooked them in the morning and put them together that same night. After they’ve cooled on a wire cooling rack I place them on foil face down allowing more drying through the backsides.
Another fun thing was to make stained glass windows. Simply break a hard candy or sucker into small pieces and put it in the cutout window section. Heat it in the oven for a few minutes – just until the candy melts. The pieces melt into a beautiful stained glass form. I put it on some foil for easy removal once it cools. I’ve also made gingerbread evergreen trees. This year’s pictures show both styles. One used 2-3 sizes of star cookies rotated and placed on top of one another to form a tree. The other I used a tree cookie cutter making two. I cut the second one down the middle before cooking. Then I iced the two half pieces to either side of the full tree and it looked like a 3D tree.
Icing & Gluing:
Some people make special sugar syrup mixtures for gluing their gingerbread house pieces together. I’m too lazy. *snort* I just make simple royal icing. That’s just powdered sugar with a little water. I mix the two until it turns into a thick consistency. It holds and sets quickly and I’ve never had a problem with anything falling apart.
I use disposable icing bags that you can buy in bulk at a craft store. Just cut the ends a drop the tip you want in, push it into place and fill the bag. One helpful tip in filling the bag is to fold it over your hand while holding the base as it will make it easier and keep frosting from getting all over the edge of the bag. The only two tips you need for a gingerbread house are a star tip for ruffles and stars and a round tip for piping and gluing.
For decorating, the plain royal icing needs modification. Otherwise it will be too stiff and won’t hold a shape resulting in a great deal of frustration. Just add some shortening and flavoring (like vanilla or butter) and it will fix that. I use about 1 C of shortening, 1 tsp of flavor (optional), 4 C powdered sugar and a little water. Your elevation has so much to do with the consistency that I’d start with a couple tablespoons of water and add more slowly until you reach the desired consistency. On this last round I just added some shortening and flavor to my royal icing until I got the consistency I could work with.
I weave my star tip back and forth to make a ruffle pattern along all the seams. You can do stars too – whatever suits you. Adding candy is the final step and by far the most fun. *smile*
This year I doubled the batch of gingerbread and it made the three houses. 1 1/2 bags (2LB size) of powdered sugar did frosting for everything and I had plenty left over too.
Why is it so easy to question yourself, to second guess simple things? Today I caught myself doing it again. I’d had a thought a few weeks ago to reach out to someone. It wasn’t anything big, just a simple hello but I talked myself out of it thinking I was just being silly. The thought returned a couple more times and I’ve dismissed it. Then yesterday I forced myself to do at least one thing I’ve been putting off. I sat down and wrote a response letter to mail to a dear friend who had written me a congratulation note for our miracle baby. It felt SO good! In fact, I wrote another letter to someone else right after. Feeling confidence, I remembered that thought to reach out and I did it. I may never know why, but it doesn’t matter. It was a good thing to do and I’m glad I did it.
I am struck by how easy it is to deflect positive thoughts, especially when a service or helping hand is involved. I once heard the advice to “act on every worthy thought”, that only good could come from it. You never know what good you can do, what heavy hand could be lifted or who’s prayer you could help answer.
In no place is this lesson more powerful to me than within the walls of my own home. The smiles and warmth that radiates from acting on those worthy thoughts…no matter how small…are little nuggets of happiness. Isn’t that what it’s all about?! This past weekend we spontaneously decided to go to the cabin with the kids. We focused on saying yes instead of no. As a result we have new memories of building a fire in the stove, taking a nature walk, playing spoons, buying souvenirs in West Yellowstone and taking a break from daily technologies and routines. It was wonderful! I hope to remember and build on this simple life lesson, it’s so worth it!